How to Choose the Best Thermostat for Bearded Dragons

A thermostat for bearded dragons is the key to temperature control, keeping the heating and lighting perfectly scheduled and at the right gradient in the enclosure.

Do you need a thermostat for your bearded dragon? Yes, we should always use thermostats. Not only can things go wrong fast for our bearded dragons if we don’t manage the heat, but also they do help save power and lengthen the life of our equipment.

Once you are ready, try the quiz below!

This article breaks down what equipment you need for heating and lighting setup and is part 3 of the 5 part series:

1. Bearded Dragon UV & Solar Radiation: Comprehensive Guide – we look at all the radiation bands bearded dragons use and what it does for them.
2. Bearded Dragon Heat Lamp and Equipment List: What you Need – All the heating and lighting equipment you need to create an artificial sun indoors.
3. How to Choose the Best Thermostat for Bearded Dragons – this article.
4. Bearded Dragons Lighting & Heating: The Ultimate Guide – bringing it all together with temperatures and lighting cycles.
5. The Worst Lights for Bearded Dragons: A Complete Guide – sometimes dangerous and definately the worst lighting and heating for bearded dragons.

What Does a Thermostat Do in a Reptile Enclosure?

A thermostat manages the temperature and simplifies your lighting and heating setup.

Reptile thermostats maintain a stable temperature by continuously adjusting the power output to heating elements. Thermostats in reptile enclosures can also save power and make our equipment last longer so they have the potential to pay for themselves over time.

Here’s how it works and why you need a thermostat for your bearded dragon:

1. Keeps the right temperatures without you guessing.
2. Stops dangerous temperature spikes and drops:
   • If the basking area gets too hot, the thermostat lowers the heat. If it gets too cold, the thermostat brings the heat back up.
   • Overheating can stress out or even harm your bearded dragon. Likewise, if the temperature goes to low other issues can occur.
3. Protects your equipment: Thermostats extend the life of your bulbs and keep them working reliably.

Which Reptile Thermostat Is Best for Bearded Dragons?

But with so many choices of thermostats for our bearded dragons enclosures it’s easy to be confused with which one to buy. Some thermostats offer more than one function. Some can be both dimming and on/off, others can be dimming and pulse.

In short, the simple answer to which thermostat is best for a bearded dragons enclosure is a dimming thermostat and here is why:

Thermostat Type	How It Works	Pros	Cons	Best For
Dimming Thermostats (Recommended Choice)	Gradually adjusts power flow to maintain consistent temperatures.	– Ideal for basking bulbs and CHEs. – Prevents flickering in light bulbs. – Extends bulb lifespan. – Highly precise. – Energy-efficient. – Can be used for day/night setups. – Includes alarms for safety.	– Slightly more expensive than other options. – Not as precise as pulse proportional for CHEs.	All-in-one solution for basking bulbs and nighttime heating with CHEs.
Pulse Proportional	Sends quick pulses of power to stabilize heat output.	– Excellent precision for non-light-emitting elements (e.g., CHEs). – Reduces thermal stress on equipment. – Energy-efficient.	– Cannot be used with basking bulbs (causes flickering). – Less versatile—limited to nighttime heating.	Best for nighttime heating with CHEs in setups without basking bulbs.
On/Off Thermostats	Turns the heat source completely on or off to control temperature.	– Cheapest option. – Easy to set up and use.	– Causes temperature fluctuations. – Shortens bulb lifespan. – Unsuitable for basking bulbs or CHEs requiring precision.	Basic setups with non-light-emitting heat sources; not recommended for precision heating.

Why the Best Thermostat for Bearded Dragons is the Dimming Thermostat

Dimming thermostats are widely regarded as the safest and most effective choice for controlling basking bulbs in a bearded dragon’s enclosure. They offer precision, versatility, and efficiency, making them a popular recommendation for both daytime and nighttime heating setups.

How Dimming Thermostats Work: Dimming thermostats regulate heat sources by gradually increasing or decreasing power flow, ensuring smooth and consistent temperature adjustments. This eliminates sudden spikes or drops and prevents light flickering in basking bulbs.

When you put a basking bulb on a dimming thermostat it will work like a dimming light switch. The light will gradually get brighter as the heat is needed and when it is hot, it will gradually get darker.

Why choose Dimming thermostats for your bearded dragons habitat?

• Perfect for Basking Bulbs: Ideal for halogen flood bulbs, ensuring consistent daytime temperatures in the basking zone without flickering or stress.
• Good for Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs): Although not as precise as pulse proportional thermostats for CHEs, dimming thermostats still work effectively by gently modulating heat output.
• Versatility: A single dimming thermostat can manage both basking bulbs and CHEs, making it a cost-effective, all-in-one solution.
• Energy Efficiency: Gradual power adjustments reduce electricity consumption.
• Extended Lifespan of Heating Elements: Gentle modulation minimizes thermal stress on bulbs and CHEs.
• Safety Features: Many dimming thermostats include programmable settings and alarms for optimal safety.

Cons

• CHE Limitations: Dimming thermostats are not as precise as pulse proportional thermostats when controlling non-light-emitting heat sources like CHEs. The gradual up-and-down modulation of heat is less efficient than the pulsing method, which offers finer control.
• Cost: Dimming thermostats are more expensive than on/off thermostats, but their versatility and benefits justify the higher price for most setups.

Why Still Recommend Dimming Thermostats for Bearded Dragons if we use CHEs? While pulse proportional thermostats may offer slightly better performance for CHEs, they cannot be used with basking bulbs, which we need for daytime heating. Since we do not want to run two thermostats we need to choose which is the best thermostat for our bearded dragons setup.

The dimming thermostat can handle both daytime basking and nighttime heat and strike the best balance between functionality and cost. They are effective for CHEs, even if not optimal, and are unmatched for basking bulbs.

Pulse Proportional Thermostats: A Great Choice for CHEs

Pulse proportional thermostats are an excellent choice for controlling non-light-emitting heat sources, such as ceramic heat emitters (CHEs). Their precision in maintaining stable temperatures makes them ideal for nighttime heating setups.

How Pulse Proportional Thermostats Work: Pulse proportional thermostats maintain stable temperatures by rapidly pulsing power to the heat source instead of switching it fully on or off. This method prevents large temperature swings and ensures consistent heat levels.

If you put a basking bulb, on a pulse thermostat it will act like a car blinker turning on an off quickly.

Why choose Pulse Proportional thermostats for your bearded dragons habitat?

• Highly Precise: Excellent for maintaining consistent temperatures, particularly at night.
• Great for CHEs: Designed specifically for non-light-emitting heat sources.
• Energy Efficiency: Reduces power consumption compared to on/off thermostats.
• Longer Equipment Lifespan: Gentle power pulses reduce thermal stress on heating elements.

Cons

• Not Suitable for Basking Bulbs: The pulsing causes light flickering, which can damage bulb filaments and stress your bearded dragon.
• Limited Versatility: Cannot control light-emitting heat sources like basking bulbs, making them unsuitable for daytime setups.
• Specialized Use: Best for nighttime heating rather than all-purpose setups.

On/Off Thermostats: A Budget-Friendly Option

On/off thermostats are the simplest and most affordable type of thermostat. However, their lack of precision makes them unsuitable for basking bulbs or CHEs in most cases. I really wouldn’t recommend on/off thermostats for our bearded dragons needs.

How On/Off Thermostats Work: On/off thermostats regulate temperatures by switching the heat source fully on when the temperature drops below the set level and turning it off when it exceeds the limit. This simple mechanism can lead to large temperature swings.

Why choose On/Off thermostats for your bearded dragons habitat?

• Affordable: The cheapest thermostat option, making it accessible for beginners.
• Simple Setup: Easy to install and use without advanced settings.

Cons

• Poor Temperature Stability: Frequent on/off cycling creates fluctuations in enclosure temperatures.
• Shortened Bulb Lifespan: Switching on and off causes light bulbs to flicker, reducing their durability.
• Unsuitable for Basking Bulbs and CHEs: Cannot provide consistent heat for sensitive or precise setups.

🦎Comparing Features of some Thermostats for Bearded Dragons

Here are some dimming thermostats to meet various needs and budgets, helping you maintain safe, consistent temperatures for basking bulbs and ceramic heat emitters (CHEs).

Note: Bearded Dragons World is reader supported. When you buy through links on this website, I may earn an affiliate commission.

Feature	Herpstat 2	Microclimate B1 HT	Eco Tech Dual	HabiStat Digital	Inkbird ITC-308	ReptiZoo TC02	Ezistat	Exo Terra 300W	Exo Terra 600W
Price Range	Less than $250	Less than $200	Less than $150	Less than $200	Less than $80	Less than $100	Less than $100	Less than $200	Less than $250
Maximum Wattage	900W with up to 500W max on an outlet	600W	1200W	600W	1000W	300W	400W	300W	600W
Type of Thermostat	Dimming & Pulse	Dimming	Dimming	Dimming	On/Off	Dimming	On/Off	Dimming & Pulse	Dimming & Pulse
Thermostat Outlets	2	1	1 (+ 1 for lighting)	2	1 (+ 1 for cooling)	1	1		2
Day/Night Cycle	Yes		Yes	Yes	No	Yes	No	Yes	Yes
Probe Type	Stainless Steel	IP Rated waterproof sensor	Plastic	Plastic	Metal	Plastic	Stainless Steel	Plastic	Plastic
Temperature Range	4 to 65°C 40 to 150°F	29°c to 45°C	0 to 50°C 32 to 122°F	0 to 50°C 32 to 122°F	-50°C to 99°C -58°F to 210.2°F	20 to 50℃ 68 to 122°F	10 to 35°C* 50 to 95°F	18 to 38°C* 64 to 100°F	10 to 60°C 50 to 140°F
Overheating Alarm Adjustable	0.5 to 10 °C 33 to 50°F		0 to 5°C 32 to 41°F	0.1 to 5°C 32 to 41°F	Yes	Yes		
Display Type	Digital	Dial	Digital	Digital	Digital	Digital	Digital	Digital	Digital
Temperature Ramping	Yes		No	No	No	No		No	No
Warranty/Guarentee	2 Years	5 Years	2 Years	5 Years	1 Year	1 Year	1 Year	5 Years	5 Years
Replacable Fuse	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
			BUY NOW ON AMAZON	BUY NOW ON AMAZON	BUY NOW ON AMAZON	BUY NOW ON AMAZON	BUY NOW ON AMAZON	BUY NOW ON AMAZON	BUY NOW ON AMAZON

Comparison of various brands of thermostats for bearded dragons.

⭐Herpstat Thermostats for Bearded Dragons

The Herpstat range of thermostats are at the top of the pops, they come with all the bells whistles we could want. I just wanted to show you some of its features so that you can see why you might want this thermostat for your bearded dragon. Yes I know they are at the higher price range 😔 but there is a good reason why.

Power Control: Think of power control like a volume knob for your heating. The Herpstat can adjust how much power goes to each heating device (0-100%).

• At 100%: Full power to your heating device
• At 50%: Half power
• At 25%: Quarter power

This means you can fine-tune exactly how much heat your reptile gets! This feature alone is worth its weight in gold.💖

Smart Safety Features: How cool is it that the Herpstat starts up slowly and cools down slowly! Not of this ‘wham’ the heating is on or off but a gentle start up and slow down.

• Soft Startup and Cool Down: Instead of blasting full heat immediately, the Herpstat gradually increases power by 1% each second. Just as it started up softly, so too at the end of the day it gracefully looses heat gradually.
• Emergency Protection:
  • Sensor failure detection: If something goes wrong with the temperature probe, it automatically shuts off
  • High/low temperature alarms: Warns you if temperatures get too hot or cold
  • Power outage memory: Remembers your settings even if the power goes out

Temperature Control Made Simple:

• Precision Settings
  • Works between 40°F to 150°F (4°C to 65°C)
  • Accurate to within 1°F
  • Shows temperatures down to decimal points
  • Can set four different temperatures throughout the day
• Temperature Ramping
  • Just like in nature, temperatures don’t change instantly. The Herpstat can:
  • Slowly warm up in the morning (up to 10 hours)
  • Gradually cool down at night
  • Create natural temperature changes your reptile would experience in the wild

Operating Modes:

• Dimming Mode
  • Works like a light dimmer
  • Smoothly adjusts power up and down
  • Best for most setups
• Pulse Mode
  • Rapidly switches power on and off
  • Better for certain types of heating equipment
  • Helps avoid buzzing sounds in some setups

This thermostat is like having a smart computer watching over your reptile’s environment 24/7, making sure everything stays perfect for their health and comfort! The range of Herpstats available are as follows:

Feature	Herpstat 1	Herpstat 2	Herpstat 4	Herpstat 6
Outlets	1	2	4	6
Max Power	700W	900W	1600W	1800W
Independent Control	✓	✓	✓	✓
Power Adjustment	✓	✓	✓	✓
LCD Display	Basic	Basic	Color	Color

Herpstat thermostats are ideal for:

• Beginners wanting room to grow
• Experienced keepers needing precise control
• Professional breeders managing multiple enclosures
• Anyone serious about reptile care

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What Wattage Thermostat do you Need?

All of the thermostats for bearded dragons we looked at in the table above are likely to meet your needs in terms of wattage. We are only supposed to plug in one device per outlet. So that means one heat lamp or one ceramic heat emitter per outlet.

However, you could plug a double or dual lamp fixture into each outlet. Look at the rating on the dual fitting to know how many watts you will be adding per outlet. For example, the Zoo Med Combo Deep Lamp Fixture has dual sockets for lamps of up to 160 watts with a combined wattage of 300 watts.

Now thats some serious heat! But, it wouldn’t necessarily be a good thing to go that high. If you remember in the article on setting up heating and lighting for bearded dragons (see the articles in habitat and housing) all the experts recommend having multiple lower wattage lamps in preference to less higher wattage lamps.

Regardless, a lamp fixture with this wattage gives you peice of mind that you should never be able to exceed its rating if you use lower wattage. That’s a nice safety range.

Depending on how cold it gets for you, you may need 2 x 50 watt basking bulbs or perhaps go the next level up at 60 watts each. Remember your UVB lighting won’t be going on your thermostat, lighting needs to go on a timer instead.

As I said, we are only supposed to put one device per outlet, but if you were going to stack devices on the thermostat then don’t use double adaptors. Any method to extend power that don’t have overload protection, such as double adaptors, is dangerous. Using a double adaptor on a thermostat could end up in overheating and electrical fires.

Instead of trying to run multiple devices per outlet, it would be better to use a thermostat like Herpstat 4 or 6.

Equipment That Should Never Be Connected to a Thermostat

Here’s a list of bulbs and equipment that should not be connected to a thermostat, along with the reasons why:

1. Lights

• Why? Lights should be on constantly during the day.
• Best Practice: Always connect lights to a timer, not a thermostat, to replicate natural daylight cycles.

2. Mercury Vapor Bulbs

• Why? Mercury vapor bulbs combine heat and UVB but are incompatible with thermostats. Thermostats, especially dimming or pulse proportional types, can cause rapid cycling or uneven power delivery, damaging the bulb and reducing UVB output.
• Best Practice: Use mercury vapor bulbs on a timer, without thermostat control.

3. Heat Rocks

• Why? Heat rocks are notorious for creating dangerous hotspots that can burn reptiles. If used, they must be connected to an on/off thermostat to prevent overheating. However, I highly recommend never using a hot rock.
• Best Practice: Avoid heat rocks entirely and opt for safer alternatives like ceramic heat emitters (CHEs).

5 Common Mistakes to Avoid with Reptile Thermostats

🚫 1. Using On/Off Thermostats with Basking Bulbs

Why it’s a problem:
On/off thermostats turn bulbs completely on or off to regulate temperature, causing the following issues:

• Bulb Damage: Constant switching shortens the lifespan of basking bulbs.
• Temperature Spikes: The basking spot becomes too hot when the bulb is on and too cold when it’s off, making it hard to maintain a consistent heat gradient.

✅ Solution: Always use a dimming thermostat with halogen basking bulbs for smooth, gradual adjustments that keep temperatures stable and bulbs working longer.

🚫2. Placing Sensors Incorrectly

Why it’s a problem:
Baines (2017) recommends placing the thermostat sensor in the coolest part of the enclosure as a safety measure. This setup ensures that the enclosure remains within safe limits and prevents overheating of the cool zone.

Sensors placed too close to heat sources, decorations, or buried in substrate give false readings. This can cause:

• Overheating: The thermostat thinks the temperature is too low and overpowers the heat source.
• Inconsistent Heating: Incorrect placement means the basking zone or cool zone isn’t properly regulated.

✅ Solution:

• Place the sensor near the basking zone for daytime accuracy.
• At night, monitor the cool zone to maintain safe nighttime temperatures.
• Avoid obstructions like rocks, logs, or decorations blocking the sensor.

🚫 3. Neglecting Regular Monitoring

Why it’s a problem:
While thermostats automatically adjust temperatures, they can fail over time or be thrown off by external changes like room temperature fluctuations. If left unchecked:

• Basking spots may become too cold or too hot.
• Nighttime temperatures can dip dangerously low.

✅ Solution:

• Use a digital thermometer or infrared heat gun to double-check temperatures weekly.
• Regularly inspect the thermostat settings and sensor placement to ensure everything works as intended.

🚫 4. Poor Sensor Placement

A thermostat is only as accurate as its sensor placement! Incorrect placement can lead to false readings and dangerous temperature fluctuations.

• Tip 1: Place the sensor near the basking zone for daytime setups. This ensures accurate monitoring of your bearded dragon’s warmest area.
• Tip 2: For nighttime heating, position the sensor to monitor the cool zone and maintain safe minimum temperatures.

✅ Solution:

• Don’t bury the sensor in the substrate—it will give inaccurate readings.
• Keep the sensor away from direct heat sources like basking bulbs or CHEs.
• Avoid placing the sensor under rocks, logs, or other decorations.

🚫 5. Buying Low-Quality or Inappropriate Thermostats Online

Shopping for thermostats online can be convenient, but it’s easy to pick a low-quality product that risks your bearded dragon’s health.

• Check Ratings & Reviews: Always verify that the thermostat offers true dimming functionality and doesn’t cause basking bulbs to flicker.
• Stick to Trusted Brands: Reputable names like Habistat, Inkbird, and ZooMed are known for reliability and safety.
• Avoid Suspiciously Cheap Models: Inexpensive, no-name thermostats may:
  • Provide inaccurate temperature control.
  • Damage heat bulbs or CHEs due to poor build quality.
  • Fail prematurely, leaving your bearded dragon vulnerable to temperature extremes.

✅ Solution: When shopping online, prioritize dimming thermostats with clear displays, programmable timers, and positive customer feedback.

Final Tips on Thermostats for Bearded Dragons

So, we solved the conundrum on thermostats for bearded dragons.

Choosing the right thermostat for our bearded dragon is more than just a convenience, the right one can save us money and it’s a game-changer for their health and happiness.

A dimming thermostat is the ultimate all-in-one solution, providing stable temperatures for basking zones during the day and gentle heat at night.

As Frances Baines (2017) highlights, proper thermostat control is vital for maintaining a healthy, natural environment for our bearded dragons. Choosing a reliable dimming thermostat and placing sensors correctly ensures safety, stability, and consistency in our setups.

By providing consistent and safe heating:

• We prevent dangerous temperature spikes and drops.
• We extend the lifespan of your basking bulbs and ceramic heat emitters (CHEs).
• We replicate the natural temperature gradients oour bearded dragon relies on to thrive. 🌟

💬 Share Your Thoughts on Thermostat Choices!

We’d love to hear from you!

• Are you leaning toward a dimming thermostat, or does another type suit your needs?
• What challenges have you faced with temperature regulation in your bearded dragon’s habitat?
• What’s the most important feature you look for in a thermostat?
• Do you feel more confident in choosing the right thermostat after reading this post?

References

• Baines, F. (2008). Photo-Kerato-Conjunctivitis in Reptiles. British Veterinary Zoological Society Proceedings, 43.
• Baines, F. M., Chattell, J., Dale, J., Garrick, D., Gill, I., Goetz, M., Skelton, T., & Swatman, M. (2016). How much UVB does my reptile need? The UV-Tool, a guide to the selection of UV lighting for reptiles and amphibians in captivity. Journal of Zoo and Aquarium Research, 4(1), 42–63.
• Baines, F. (2017). Your First Bearded Dragon Care Information.
• Doneley, B. (2006). Caring for the bearded dragon. North American Veterinary Conference. Orlando , Florida., 1607–1611.