Bearded Dragon Heat Lamp, UV and Equipment: What you Need

Choosing the best bearded dragon heat lamp or UV light gets easier with the research available to us these days. This article breaks down what equipment you need for heating and lighting setup and is part 2 of the 5 part series:

1. Bearded Dragon UV & Solar Radiation: Comprehensive Guide – we look at all the radiation bands bearded dragons use and what it does for them.
2. Bearded Dragon Heat Lamp and Equipment List: What you Need – this article.
3. How to Choose the Best Thermostat for Bearded Dragons – detailed walk through on what type of thermostats is best and some brands.
4. Bearded Dragons Lighting & Heating: The Ultimate Guide – bringing it all together with temperatures and lighting cycles.
5. The Worst Lights for Bearded Dragons: A Complete Guide – sometimes dangerous and definately the worst lighting and heating for bearded dragons.

Best Heating and Lighting for Bearded Dragons Indoor Enclosure

The best heating and lighting for bearded dragons starts with which bulbs we will use. The reason we start with the bulbs is because that determines what fittings we need for the bulbs. In turn, the bulbs we choose then also impact their placement in our bearded dragons enclosure.

We have three types of bulbs which are basking bulbs, UVB bulbs and ceramic heat emitters. These 3 things will make up our bearded dragons sun indoors.

Before we move on, did you know that UVB and basking lights are not the same thing? UVB bulbs and basking lights are definately not the same thing, however lights like the mercury vapor bulbs can do both.

If you have read the post that first post in this series, Bearded Dragon UV & Solar Radiation: Comprehensive Guide, then you would remember that we need to provide 4 bands of radiation and they are UVA, UVB, visible light and infrared. It gives an understanding of what we are trying to achieve in the setup here.

Anyway, here are the bulbs we need to create our bearded dragons lighting and heating:

Equipment	Purpose
💡1. Basking Bulb	Provides heat & visible light without UV.
🌞2. UVB Bulb	Produces UVB radiation, some UVA, contributes to visible light.
🔥3. Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE)	Provides additional heat for daytime and nighttime heat without light.

💡1. Basking Bulbs for Bearded Dragons

There are a range of basking bulb options for bearded dragons. Here’s the breakdown:

Type of Basking Bulb	Details
Halogen Flood Basking Bulbs	👍Efficient heat and visible light. These bulbs create a focused basking spot and distribute heat evenly. Popular options include ZooMed Repti Basking Spot Lamp and Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp. Halogen bulbs are long-lasting and energy-efficient but should be paired with dimming thermostats for optimal control. Replace every 6–12 months or as needed.
Incandescent Bulbs	Incandescent bulbs work for basking, but they tend to be less efficient and have a shorter lifespan compared to halogen bulbs. One example is the ExoTerra Intense Basking Spot. Great for a budget setup, but replacements are needed every 1–12 months and maybe average around 4 months.
Mercury Vapor Bulbs	Mecury vapor bulbs offer heat, visible light, and UVB. Examples include ZooMed Powersun and Arcadia D3 Basking Lamp. Ideal for multi-purpose needs but cannot be dimmed or used with thermostats. Replacement is recommended every 12 months but because of the UVB, they may need to be replaced earlier. I have found mercury vapor bulbs to break relatively easily. They can be unforgiving if knocked or even if you get multiple power failures.

🌞2. Best UVB Lighting for Bearded Dragons

Thanks to research, discovering the best UVB lighting for bearded dragons is simple. Walla! Here is the breakdown:

Type of Light	Details
T5 High-Output (T5-HO) UVB Fluorescent Tubes	👍High output, long-lasting, reliable. These are the gold standard for UVB lighting, offering stronger output over greater distances. They’re reliable, long-lasting, and perfect for most enclosures. Popular picks include the Arcadia T5 D3+ 12% UVB and ZooMed Reptisun 10.0 (Baines, 2017). Both of these options should be replaced every 12 months. For easy bearded dragon lighting options, stick with the T5 UVB fluorescent tubes.
UVB-Emitting Mercury Vapor Lamps	Combines UVB, UVA, and heat. Combining heat and UVB in one bulb, these are a multitasking marvel but come with a catch: they can’t be dimmed or used with thermostats. Examples include the Arcadia D3 Basking Lamp and ZooMed Powersun (Baines, 2017) which range from 80 watts to 160 watts. Manufacters of these options recommend replacing every 12 months. Mercury vapor bulbs are great.
UVB-Emitting Metal Halide Lamps	Ultra-bright and very hot. Look for options like the Mega-Ray UV-Wide-Beam and ExoTerra Sunray (Baines, 2017). They are considered great sunlight simulators but they give a narrower beam which is not ideal. Unfortunately they require external ballasts and special lampholders, so its not a great starting place. Might be better to stick with the options above.

Which is better, T5 or T8 UVB for bearded dragons? T5 HO (High Output) UVB bulbs are superior to T8 bulbs for bearded dragons. T5 bulbs provide stronger UVB output and better penetration distance, meaning they can be mounted higher above the enclosure while still delivering effective UVB radiation. T5 fixtures are also more energy efficient and maintain their UVB output longer than T8 bulbs.

🔥3. Heat Lamps for Bearded Dragons

Ceramic heat emitters (CHEs) are an excellent way to provide heat for our bearded dragons without adding light. We typically use ceramic heat emitters at night time. The CHEs could be used temporarily during the day if you are caught short when a basking bulb breaks.

Ceramic heat emitters put out infrared radiation to provide consistent warmth without light, and that is why they are perfect for nighttime heating. Available in wattages from 25W to 150W. Replace every 3–5 years or as needed.

Pretty much any brand of ceramic heat emitter is fine.

Pro Tip: Always pair your CHE with a thermostat to prevent overheating and maintain a steady temperature. Place it over the cooler or middle zones of the enclosure to create a well-distributed heat gradient.

🏅The Winning Combinations for our Bearded Dragon Heat Lamp & Lighting

Bearded Dragons Lighting and Heating Setup

The best combinations for bulbs are:

1. UVB fluorescent tube (not compact coil fluorescent light) + halogen flood basking bulb + ceramic heat emitter, or
2. Mercury vapor bulb + halogen flood basking bulb + ceramic heat emitter

Which combination will you choose?

What you need to House & Monitor your Bearded Dragons Lighting and Heating Setup

Now we know the bulbs we need to choose the housing for them. There are a few options but it does depend on whether you are putting the lighting and heating for your bearded dragon inside its enclosure or on top. The

Equipment	Purpose	Best Options	Tips	What to Avoid
Ceramic Heat Lamp Holder	Holds and supports light and heat lamp bulbs with reflector. Reflectors help focus heat and light. Lamp holders come in single and dual (for 2 bulbs).	High-quality ceramic fixtures with built-in reflectors (e.g., Arcadia Clamp Lamp, Exo Terra Glow Light). Make sure you choose a lamp holder that can cope with the bulb wattage you will put in them.	Ensure the holder is rated for the wattage of your CHE. Choose models with a reflective interior to maximize heat distribution. Use holders with heat-resistant wiring.	Avoid plastic or low-quality holders as they can melt or catch fire under high heat. Avoid holders without reflectors as they waste energy.
T5 Fluorescent Strip Light Holder	Holds T5 fluorescent UVB tubes securely while ensuring proper UVB exposure for your bearded dragon. Reflectors focus light and maximize UVB efficiency.	Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit (comes with built-in reflector and easy setup), ZooMed Reptisun T5 HO Terrarium Hood.	Position the fixture at the correct height as per the tube’s specifications to achieve the desired UV Index (e.g., UVI 3–7 for basking). Use fixtures with reflectors for optimal UVB and visible light distribution. Replace bulbs annually for consistent output.	Avoid non-reflective or low-quality fixtures that waste UVB output. Avoid placing fixtures inside the enclosure without proper protection from humidity and dragon interaction.
Heat Lamp Guards	For lights and heat that go inside your bearded dragons enclosure to protect it from burns.	Wire-mesh heat lamp guards (e.g., Komodo or Arcadia).	Always install guards around basking bulbs and ceramic heat emitters. Secure properly to avoid accidents.	Open bulbs without guards can lead to severe injury. Use heat lamp guards to prevent serious burns (Divers & Mader, 2006).

Next we need to manage and monitor our enclosure to make sure our bearded dragons lighting and heating is right. So we need:

Equipment	Purpose	Best Options	Tips	What to Avoid
Thermostat	Regulates temperatures to prevent overheating or chilling.	Dimming thermostat	Use dimming thermostats for basking bulbs and ceramic heat emitters to maintain stable temperatures, avoiding overheating. Place the probe in the coolest area to prevent overheating (Baines, 2017).	Avoid on/off thermostats for bulbs, as they can shorten bulb lifespan and cause heat fluctuations.
Timers	Automates day and night lighting schedules to mimic natural day-night cycles.	Programmable digital timers (e.g., BN-Link, Zilla).	Set timers to 12–14 hours of daylight during summer and 10–12 hours during winter (Doneley, 2006).	Manual timers can be inconsistent, disrupting your dragon’s routine.
UVI Meter	Measures UVB radiation to ensure proper UV levels in your dragon’s basking zone and enclosure.	Solarmeter 6.5 UV Index Meter (preferred for reptile enclosures)	Measure UV levels at the basking zone to ensure a UVI of 3–7. Test regularly to monitor bulb output and replace as needed.	Avoid UV meters designed for industrial purposes, as they may not provide the required precision for reptile setups.
Thermometers	Monitors temperatures in the basking zone and cool zone.	Digital infrared thermometers and dual-probe thermometers.	Check basking zone (104°F/40°C) and cool side (77–82°F/25–28°C) daily. Use a probe thermometer for accuracy.	Avoid stick-on thermometers, as they provide inaccurate readings (Baines, 2017).
Hygrometer	Monitors humidity levels to prevent respiratory issues.	Digital hygrometers (e.g., Exo Terra or ZooMed).	Keep humidity between 30–40% for adult dragons. Place near the cool zone for reliable readings.	Avoid analog hygrometers; they’re often unreliable and harder to read.
UPS power guard	A luxury that can save your system from surges and short power outages.	Any	A UPS (uninterupted power supply) is not necessary but if you can add one to your system then the UPS will protect it from brown outs and black outs. The bigger the UPS, the longer it will keep your bearded dragons heating and lighting working for.

What is the Best Wattage Heat Lamp for Bearded Dragons?

So now we know which bulbs we need, next we need to know what wattage bulbs we need. I will give you the bad news first and then the good news, so hang in there.

The bad news is that to know what wattage (size bulbs that we just looked at) that you need depends on your climate, essentially your house temperature during the day and night. How much work will the heat lamp for your bearded dragon have to do?

Our bearded dragons enclosure also makes a difference. For example, what wattage heat lamp we need for a 40 gallon glass tank (which are terrible at keeping heat in) compared to a 6 foot long melamine enclosure will be different.

Lastly, we need to know how big your enclosure is. Small enclosures are going to rapidly heat up and cause gradient problems but large enclosures will need more heat.

The good news is that we have ways of fudging all that! So grab your coffee and let me tell you all about it. Here are some ways to fudge what you need when you aren’t quite sure.

1. Hack #1: You need a thermostat so if you have the funds then make the investment into a Herpstat thermostat for your bearded dragon. The Herpstat thermostat lets you turn down the power to any outlet. So what this means is if you had a ceramic heat emitter that was say 75 watt, but it turned out to be too hot, then you can have your Herpstat thermostat reduce the amount of power that goes to it. This means your 75 watt CHE could now operate at say 50 watts.
2. Hack #2: You need some spares of some bulbs because things may break at times and you don’t want it to be in the middle of that snow storm when you can’t get out of the house. So, you can buy a couple of different wattages and the one you don’t use is a spare.

List for Heating and Lighting for Bearded Dragons

Before we dive into your choices of heating and lighting here are a few key points which impact our decisions.

• 🗝️The UVB spread needs to be as long as your bearded dragons body (snout to vent). It must never be over the entire enclosure.
• 🗝️Use two or three lower-wattage bulbs (e.g., 50W) rather than one high-wattage bulb to avoid hot spots (Baines, 2017). It is much more natural.

1. UVB Fluorescent Tube + Halogen Flood Basking Bulb + Ceramic Heat Emitter Combo

If you choose the combination of the UVB fluorescent tube + halogen flood basking bulb + ceramic heat emitter then here is what you need:

• 1 x UVB fluorescent tube the length of your bearded dragons body (snout to vent) so a 30 cm tube is sufficient. Unless you have a large enclosure in which case you can go longer to provide more basking areas. Just remember they need shade as well.
• 1 x strip light holder with reflector to house the fluorescent tube size you selected.
• 3 x halogen flood basking bulb. Try 1 x 50 watt (as a spare) and 2 x 75 watt basking bulbs in a dual lamp fitting. If you are in a very cold area you may need to go up even higher depending on the size of your enclosure. Remember we are trying to spread out the heat in the basking area so try not to go for a single higher wattage bulb, go for two lower wattage rather than one.
• 2 x ceramic heat emitter @ 50 watt (one spare in case of breakage) for night time.
• 1 x dual ceramic lamp holder with reflector to house the 2 basking bulbs.
• 1 lamp holder with reflector to house the ceramic heat emitter.
• 2 timers.
• 1 thermostat with 2 outlets.

2. Mercury Vapor + Halogen Flood Basking Bulb + Ceramic Heat Emitter Combo

The combination of the mercury vapor bult + halogen flood basking bulb + ceramic heat emitter (for night) is not as easy as the UVB fluorescent tube combination. This is becuase the mercury vapor bulbs and halogen flood basking bulb give out heat but cannot be connected to a thermostat. However, for the mecury vapor setup here is what you need:

• 1 x mercury vapor. An 80 to 100 watt bulb may be sufficient combined with the basking bulbs.
• 1 x halogen flood basking bulb. Try 1 x 50 watt and 1 x 75 watt basking bulbs in a dual lamp fitting, one of them will be a spare. We are trying to spread out the heat in the basking area so don’t go for a single higher wattage bulb. For example, avoid 150 watt bulbs.
• 1 x dual lamp holder to house the mecury vapor lamp and one of the basking bulbs.
• 2 x ceramic heat emitter @ 50 watt (one spare in case of breakage) for night time.
• 1 lamp holder with reflector to house the ceramic heat emitter.
• 1 timer.
• 1 thermostat for the ceramic heat emitter only (night).

Light & Heat Lamp Fittings

Our bearded dragons heat lamp and lighting need to be in a fitting that can cope with the wattage and heat output. When choosing lamp fittings make sure:

• It has a reflector which help intensify and/or focus light.
• Has a higher wattage capacity than what we will need. Future proof it, get higher wattage than what you need.
• Buy ceramic fittings as they need to be able to cope with the heat.
• Check if it is designed to sit inside the enclosure or on top of it.

For example, purchase the fitting with the highest wattage rating that you are likely to use, i.e. a 150 watt fitting. You can now use any wattage bulb whether it is 50 watt or 150 watt (but not over 150). But remember, having 2 smaller wattage bulbs such as 2 x 75 watt bulbs is going to distribute heat better, reduce extreme hot spots and with that should never reach the extremities of temperature it is designed for.

Purchase a brand you are comfortable with over what price it is. Although the initial purchase price might be more, it is a once off purchase as long as the fitting is reasonable, and it is used appropriately. Faulty or poorly designed fittings can cause fires.

Heat Guards to Protect from Burns

Heat guards are essential for any bearded dragon heat lamp or lighting that can generate heat. The key points when selecting heat guards are:

• Installation.
• Ease of access to changing bulbs.

Mesh guards can be fitted to help prevent direct contact but can themselves be used as a climbing object. Buy guards that give easy access to changing bulbs as needed.

You will not need heat guards if the hot fittings are outside, on top of the bearded dragons house.

3. Equipment to Manage & Monitor Our Bearded Dragons Heat Lamp & Lighting

Regardless of which combination from above we choose, managing and monitoring our bearded dragons heat lamp and lighting setup is just as essential as setting it up correctly. Here is the equipment you need to monitor and manage your bearded dragons setup:

• 1 x thermostat. The wattage of the thermostat needs to be sufficient to take the wattage of heating bulbs (excluding mercury vapor and UVB fluorescent light) plus 20% for safety. For example if you chose 2 x 100 watt basking bulbs then you need a thermostat that can take at least 220 watts. That is pretty small and doesn’t allow for the future upgrades so perhaps don’t get less than 300 watt. Each fitting must have its own socket in the thermostat so a dual fitting plus a ceramic heat emitter would require 2 outlets on the thermostat. Remember there is a whole article on choosing thermostats so check that out.
• 1 x UVI meter to check the UVB output.
• 1 x timer for the UVB light (mercury vapor or UVB fluorescent light)
• 2 x thermometers. One for the cool end of the gradient and one for the basking end.
• 1 x hygrometer to check the humidity.

Is 7% UVB Enough for a Bearded Dragon?

A 7% UVB output is not sufficient for a bearded dragon.

What the UVB percentages mean: The percentage of UVB refers to the amount of electrical energy converted into UVB radiation within the specific wavelength range needed by reptiles (290-320 nanometers). A 7% bulb means that 7% of the bulb’s energy output is converted to usable UVB radiation.

What % UVB is enough bearded bragons: A 10-14% UVB bulb is the standard recommendation for bearded dragons, particularly the T5 HO (High Output) fluorescent tubes. This higher percentage helps our bearded dragons receive adequate UVB even when:

• The bulb naturally degrades over time
• UVB is partially blocked by mesh tops
• The basking spot is at the optimal distance

A 7% bulb might work temporarily or as a supplementary light source, but it’s not ideal as your primary UVB source.

Concluding our Bearded Dragon Heat Lamp and Lighting Equipment

The key to all of our bearded dragon heat lamp and lighting is to manage it with thermometers, hygrometers, thermostat, UVI meter, heat guards, reflectors and other bits and pieces.

We looked at the best lighting for bearded dragons along with quality equipment. Monitoring everything regularly is important so that we can make adjustments as needed. Small changes can make a big difference in preventing issues like metabolic bone disease or stress-related illnesses (Mans, 2017).

So, my friend, I will see you in the next article.

More articles on habitat and housing for bearded dragons here.

References

• Baines, F. (2017). Your First Bearded Dragon Care Information.
• Divers, S. J., & Mader, D. R. (2006). Reptile Medicine and Surgery (2nd ed.). Elsevier Saunders.
• Doneley, B. (2006). Caring for the bearded dragon. North American Veterinary Conference. Orlando , Florida., 1607–1611.
• Mans, C., & Braun, J. (2014). Update on Common Nutritional Disorders of Captive Reptiles. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Exotic Animal Practice, 17(3), 369–395.
• Sakich, N. B., & Tattersall, G. J. (2022). Regulation of Exposure to Ultraviolet Light in Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps) in Relation to Temperature and Scalation Phenotype. Ichthyology & Herpetology, 110(3).
• Wunderlich, S., Griffiths, T. C., & Baines, F. M. (2023). UVB‐emitting LEDs for reptile lighting: Identifying the risks of nonsolar UV spectra. Zoo Biology.